Tucked away in Colombia’s Sierra Nevada mountains is Ciudad Perdida — the Lost City — a place older than Machu Picchu, hidden under thick jungle for centuries. Getting there isn’t easy. You’ve got to hike for days through muddy trails, cross rivers, climb endless hills, and battle the humidity.
But honestly? That trek turned out to be one of the best things (and sweatiest hikes) I’ve ever done — not just for the views, but for the people I met along the way. Especially the Wiwa guide who told me a story that stuck with me ever since: the story of the woodpecker and the toucan.
What’s the Lost City Trek Actually Like?
The Lost City Trek is usually a four- or five-day hike (I did five), covering about 46 kilometres out and back. Each day you’re trekking for hours, crashing at simple camps by the river, eating basic meals, and getting tortured by mosquitoes (they somehow loved by blood).
The route runs through Indigenous lands, and most of the guides are from local tribes like the Wiwa or Kogi. Along the way, you don’t just get incredible jungle scenery — you also hear real stories and traditions passed down for generations. And that’s what makes it so different from any other trek I’ve done before.
The Story of the Woodpecker and the Toucan
One evening, after a big days hike and one too many protein bars and bowls of rice, we all sat around while our Wiwa guide shared a story. He told it mostly in Spanish, and between my broken Spanish and the help of a translator, I pieced it together.
It goes like this:
A long time ago, the woodpecker and the toucan didn’t look anything like they do today. The woodpecker actually had a huge, colourful beak — just like what we see on toucans now. Meanwhile, the toucan had a short, sturdy beak, a bit like a chisel.
The problem was, neither bird was very happy. The woodpecker struggled to find food; his big flashy beak was too heavy and awkward for pecking into trees. Meanwhile, the toucan couldn’t reach the sweet fruits hanging from the tall branches with his small beak.
One day, fed up, they met and decided to swap beaks. And just like that, everything fell into place.
The woodpecker could finally hammer into trees, find insects, and survive. The toucan, now blessed with a big, curved beak, could reach fruit and show off his colours.
And that, according to Wiwa tradition, is why the woodpecker and toucan look the way they do today.
A Lesson from the Jungle
It’s a simple story on the surface, but sitting there, halfway up a Colombian mountain, it hit different.
It’s about adapting, working together, and finding balance — not just between animals, but with nature itself. The Wiwa people, like the Tayrona before them, live by those kinds of lessons. And it’s something that stays with you after a trek like this — way more than just the photos or the scenery.
Final Thoughts (and a Bit of Advice)
If you’re thinking of doing the Lost City Trek, here’s my honest advice: don’t rush it. Don’t treat it like just another hike to tick off a list. The Wiwa and Kogi communities you meet have a lot to share — if you’re willing to really listen.
Take your time. Listen to the stories. Appreciate the culture you’re walking through.
Sometimes it’s not about getting to the destination first. Sometimes, it’s about the stories you pick up along the way — the ones that stay with you long after you’re back home in London, thinking about how a woodpecker and a toucan once made a deal that changed everything.
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