“Traveling—it leaves you speechless, then turns you into a storyteller.” — Ibn Battuta
Honestly, Sri Lanka is one of the best countries I’ve ever had the chance to visit. Despite only spending three weeks there, I’ve made memories that will last a lifetime. If you’re thinking of going, I highly recommend it, although I would suggest a minimum of two weeks.
I could easily have spent longer, and I’ve met many Westerners who have (mostly English and Aussies, which isn’t surprising for those who’ve been backpacking 😄). Some have even set up businesses there, such as coffee shops, hostels, surf schools, and the classic yoga retreat. I was fortunate enough to visit Bali in 2018 before it became so commercialized, and Sri Lanka gave me that same raw, untamed vibe.
So, let’s highlight the route I took, which I wouldn’t change at all. For those planning a trip there, I highly recommend it. I’ve also created the blog “Blackpacker” for a reason, so I wanted to mention how I felt as a black backpacker in Sri Lanka.
Brief Route Overview
- Colombo: Arrival and exploring the city
- Kandy: Taking a scenic train ride and visiting temples
- Dambulla and Sigiriya: Hiking and sunrise views
- Ella: Enjoying nature and picturesque landscapes
- Yala National Park: Wildlife safari and spotting leopards
- Coastal Stops: Surfing and relaxing in Hiriketiya, exploring Matara, whale watching in Mirissa, and surfing in Weligama
A Quick Glimpse of Colombo: More Than Just a Gateway
I started with a flight to Colombo, where I spent a few days experiencing the city and enjoying the local cuisine. Honestly, the city itself is okay, but not the most beautiful. I wouldn’t recommend spending more than two days here. The main attractions in Colombo include the Gangaramaya Temple, which is a mix of modern architecture and cultural essence, and the Galle Face Green, a long stretch of promenade along the coast that’s perfect for evening walks.
Exploring Kandy: A Blend of Serenity and Heritage
From Colombo, I took the train to Kandy and spent two days exploring the city. It’s less intense than Colombo, and you can do some cool excursions outside the city. The main attraction here is the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic, a Buddhist temple that houses a tooth of the Buddha. The Peradeniya Botanical Gardens is also a must-visit, offering a lush escape with beautiful flora.
The Wonders of Dambulla and Sigiriya: A Hiker’s Paradise
From Kandy, I headed to Dambulla, which is more remote and more my vibe. I did an early morning hike to Sigiriya and enjoyed a beautiful sunrise view. The main attraction here is the Sigiriya Rock Fortress, an ancient rock fortress and palace ruin that offers stunning panoramic views. I also hiked Pidurangala Rock, which is easier and has steps, making it accessible for all ages.
Discovering Ella: Nature’s Playground and Scenic Splendor
After Dambulla, I returned to Kandy and then took the train to Ella. This journey is one of the most scenic I’ve ever experienced. Although I wanted a first-class ticket, they were sold out, so I ended up with a second-class ticket. Make sure to experience the classic “hanging out the train door” photo – a timeless Instagram shot!
Ella is stunning, especially if you’re into nature. I stayed in a beautiful hostel within walking distance of a national park and scenic area. The main attractions in Ella include the Nine Arches Bridge, which is probably one of the most beautiful bridges I’ve ever seen (and I live in London, home of Tower Bridge). Time your visit to see the coal train cross the bridge – it’s magical! Don’t miss Little Adam’s Peak, an easy hike that offers breathtaking views of the surrounding hills.
Wildlife Adventures in Yala: A Close Encounter with Nature
From Ella, I traveled to Yala to visit the national park. I was traveling with three other people, including a mate from home. We organized a jeep with a driver to take us around the park at dawn. The early start is worth it, as we saw two leopards within the first hour! The main attraction here is, of course, the Yala National Park, which is famous for its diverse wildlife, including elephants, leopards, and a variety of bird species.
Coastal Bliss: Surfing and Relaxing in Hiriketiya
After Yala, my first coastal stop was Hiriketiya. This place is a hidden gem, perfect for surfers and those who love a chill, laid-back vibe. The beach is gorgeous, with clear blue waters and soft sand. I spent my days surfing and lounging on the beach, and my evenings enjoying the local beach bars. The main attraction here is the Hiriketiya Beach itself, known for its perfect waves and relaxed atmosphere. The sunset here is something you don’t want to miss.
Matara’s Charm: Colonial History and Modern Delights
Next, I headed to Matara. This town has a bit more hustle and bustle compared to Hiriketiya, but it’s still charming. I explored the Dutch Fort, which gives you a glimpse into the colonial history of the area. The beaches here are also lovely, and you can find some great local eateries serving delicious Sri Lankan food. The main attraction in Matara is the Matara Fort and the Weherahena Temple, which is famous for its giant Buddha statue.
Magical Mirissa: Whale Watching and Beach Fun
Mirissa was my third stop along the coast. Known for its whale watching, I couldn’t resist going on a boat tour. We were lucky enough to see blue whales and dolphins – an unforgettable experience! The beach in Mirissa is also fantastic, with a lively atmosphere and plenty of beach bars and restaurants. The main attraction here is the whale watching tours and the beautiful Mirissa Beach.
Weligama’s Waves: Surfing and Local Flavors
My final coastal destination was Weligama, a haven for surfers. If you’re new to surfing, this is the place to be. The waves are gentle, making it perfect for beginners. I took a few surf lessons and had a blast. Weligama also has a vibrant local market where you can find fresh fruits and local crafts. The main attraction here is the Weligama Beach, known for its ideal surfing conditions.
Travelling Sri Lanka as a Black Person
Travelling Sri Lanka was an eye-opening experience with its share of highs and lows. As a black traveller, I often found myself blending in with the locals, especially when wearing my snapback. However, my white friend and I would stand out whenever we were together, mainly due to our clothing styles (by the way, all the men there wear jeans in 30-degree heat – I have no idea how they manage it!).
One major experience that stood out was a visit to a beach club in Weligama. The club allowed foreigners to enter for free, while locals had to pay a small fee to limit the number of people and prevent begging or theft. Locals were given a white wristband to show they had paid, but foreigners didn’t need one as they were easy to spot.
At the entrance, a worker pointed me out as a local because I was wearing a snapback. Despite telling him I wasn’t a local, he refused to believe me. As you can imagine, I was frustrated, and so was he, thinking I was trying to get in for free. I eventually had to speak to the manager and prove I wasn’t a local by showing my driving license and place of birth.
Overall, travelling Sri Lanka as a black person had its unique challenges and memorable moments. This experience at the beach club in Weligama was a stark reminder of the assumptions people make based on appearance. It also highlighted the importance of patience and communication in such situations. Despite the occasional hiccup, Sri Lanka remains a beautiful and welcoming destination.
Reflecting on My Sri Lankan Adventure: A Journey Worth Taking
In conclusion, my trip to Sri Lanka was an incredible journey filled with unforgettable experiences. From the bustling cities to the serene coast, every part of the trip offered something unique. If you’re considering visiting Sri Lanka, I highly recommend it. This route provided a perfect blend of adventure, nature, and relaxation. As a black backpacker, I felt welcomed and had an amazing time exploring this beautiful country.
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Happy travels! 🌏✈️🏝️
